When the average person thinks of the Taj Mahal he/she associates it with India and being a wonder of the world. But when pressed further that person doesn’t really know why it’s a wonder or why it’s so special. History tells us that the 5th emperor of India “Shah Jahan” built it in honor of his wife “Mumtaz Mahal” after she died in childbirth. This is often called “the greatest symbol if love”. But what brings 7-8 million tourists to this site every year?

Seeing the enormity of the Taj Mahal takes your breath away. It is 73 meters tall and built by the famous architect (at his time) Ustad Ahmad Lahauri. The Taj Mahal is considered a mausoleum because it houses the tombs of Shah Jahan and his wife Mumtaz Mahal. The Taj Mahal is perfectly symmetrical, down to every last detail except for the tombs. Being that Mumtaz died before her husband she was placed in the middle of the mausoleum. When Shah died his tomb was placed to the left of her, setting off symmetry. The gardens around the Taj Mahal, consisting of fountains and manicured plants, are symmetrical too. The combination of the symmetry and the Mughal architecture draws the tourists’ eyes and makes it very hard for them to look away.

The Taj Mahal is made of white marble. When you look into the reflection of the center fountain it is reflected back. According to tour guides this is the best way to look at the Taj Mahal. The space of the wonder is rather interesting to explore because it is so large. Looking up at the Taj makes you feel like a small ant. The closer you get to it, the smaller you feel. There are a lot of bugs around premises because of the open rural area around the building. There are also so many people trying to take the perfect picture all around you. Your person space is nonexistent: people get extremely close to you trying to knock you out of a spot so they can get a picture. Aside from the constant contact of strangers, you are badgered by photographers trying to get you to pay them for taking your picture. No matter how many times you say no to these photographers they will keep asking and bothering you. It is hard to enjoy the view of what you spent so much time getting to with the hagglers and masses of people.

When you enter the building you are herded through a particular path to ensure order. The line takes you around the tombs in a circle and out a different exit. Employed officers line the one-way path to keep tourists moving. When you walk inside, the ceilings are so tall it feels like a bigger space than it is. The marble keeps the inside cool compared to the hot and humid outside.  

In India the women dress very conservatively. To avoid sexual harassment from men you must match the culture of the country that you’re in. Wear traditional clothing to blend in. When you are blending in you experience more of the culture. If you stick out then people will treat you differently then locals treat locals. Being from a different place you will naturally stick out to a degree, but traditional clothes show the locals that you are meant to be there and doing your part to soak in the culture.

When experiencing the beauty of the Taj Mahal you can’t erase the image of poverty right outside the gates. The Taj Mahal is so luxurious it feels like it is a contradiction being located outside of New Delhi, reddened with poverty.  India has the most concentrated amount of people living below what the World Bank deems the international poverty line. This is the equivalent of equal or less than $1.25 USD per day. 30.7% of India's children under the age of five are underweight. According to the Food and Agriculture Organization, in 2015 15% of Indians are undernourished. Apart from the poverty alone, the country of India has the highest concentration of people living in slavery: 14 million people. India also has the highest percentage of child laborers (deemed as children under the age of 14 engaged in hazardous jobs): 12.6 million children. (All of these statistics were given by tour guides and checked by Wikipedia). Some may argue that the reason for these extreme statistics is from the fact that India’s population is so dense. Either way, walking the streets of New Delhi makes you realize the obvious poverty. Starving people with deformities line the street begging. Some don’t even have enough energy to beg, they just sit there with a coin jar. Seeing this as you walk into the wealthy property of the Taj Mahal puts a pit in your stomach.

Like the Great Wall of China, slaves also built this wonder of the world. By paying for a ticket and observing the Taj Mahal are we validating the dark history of savory? The slaves constructed the Taj Mahal in a little over 20 years. 20 years of hard labor for the Emperor’s enjoyment. The building’s dark history is a reminder of a terrible practice, but does that mean we shouldn’t visit it? Visiting the Taj Mahal shouldn’t be interpreted to mean that you support slavery; it can be a reminder to do all that we can to stop the slavery that still exists in this world and honor those who are affected by it.

The tour guides will tell you that the Taj Mahal is actually sinking. The building is so heavy and dense that the swampy land is giving in. When you look at the Taj Mahal, the right side appears shorter than the right. This is from the wet ground. The humid air, hot temperature, and supple ground are all keep components in the sinking of the Taj Mahal. The Taj Mahal is made out of marble, so it is very heavy. It literally is compressing the ground. Tour guides say that soon they will close the Taj Mahal to tourists and not allow people to go in and walk around. There is plenty of area to walk around the outside of the Taj Mahal but taking away the access to the inside will diminish some of the draw that this wonder of the world brings. One (if not the) main part of the Taj Mahal is the fact that Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan’s tomb is inside. With the new restricted access, visitors won’t be able to experience that part of the Taj Mahal. Time will tell if this decreases the amount of tourists that flock to this wonder of the world. Being that the Taj Mahal is so iconic, I predict that there will be just as much foot traffic as before.

The tourists that go to the Taj Mahal are from all around the world. Many of the sites that Semester at Sea has visited earlier in the voyage there are just students, staff, and life long learners touring the sites. When a tourist walks around the Taj Mahal he/she will meet people from all around the world. Americans seem to be the minority, but that is based on the day that I toured. Any other given day the demographics could be different. Due to the fact that this is such a popular tourist attraction I don’t think that the number of tourists and amount of foot traffic will decease.

The Taj Mahal holds an image of love, a meaning of culture, and represents a special sector of history. By going to the Taj Mahal a visitor will experience many emotions and learn many new things. Visiting is worth the hours of travel to ravel in this building’s beauty and soak in India’s dense culture.

              Every person you meet has a story. During my time in Ghana I learned that a five year old who walks by me might have a deeper story than mine, even though I have a 15-year advantage. Whether it’s the tour guide or the preschooler playing in the field you never quite know the entirety of what he/she might have gone through.

              I had the privilege to volunteer with the City of Refuge Ministries outside of Accra, Ghana. As we went down the dirt “driveway” (which is not a driveway but more of an over grown path that cars just happen to drive down) I knew that I was in the middle of Africa, a developing country. There were small buildings around me some finished and some just construction site projects that have been temporarily abandoned because there isn't enough money to continue at this time. The grass is over grown, the paths are dirt, and the drinking water is a long walk away. We got to our accommodation, which was a set of wooden bunk beds in room with no sheets or pillows, and set down our things. I checked out the bathroom, which was pretty standard except only a bucket for a shower. The heat and humidity was also suffocating, I really didn’t know how I felt about how living here for the next couple of days.

            We sat down for lunch and met with the couple that founded City of Refuge Ministries: Johnbull and Stacy had met when Stacy (originally from the USA) was in Ghana doing a mission project and learning about God. Johnbull was doing the same thing; he had traveled from his home of Nigeria. They explained that God had lead them to be together. They were married 6 months after they met and moved about an hour and half outside of Accra to open the City of Refuge Ministries. They built a school (which has over 300 students today) and began to take in over a hundred orphans or children that had been trafficked, who now live at the ministry. Stacy and Johnbull would go into fishermen villages and spot the children laborers and then bring them back to a safe and loving environment. They also speak to women that are in risk of selling their children into labor. They go into villages and talk to poor single mothers that cannot support the children that they already have, offer them the opportunity to stay at the ministry to learn a trade (like sewing), and become literate. The women go through this program, accompanied by education about child labor, and then graduate to go back to their villages and educate their peers. Child labor is so engrained into the Ghanaian culture that many women don’t know that their child is going to be a laborer when a person offers them the equivalence of a couple of dollars for their child, they just see it as someone taking one thing off their plate.

            After I learned this story the heat and living conditions became irrelevant. The story inspired everyone in my group; all we wanted to do was help this couple with their mission. After a tour of the grounds, we walked to the school. The class day had just ended so the children were pouring out of the classrooms. They ran right up to us and we all started playing in the grass fields. We played games that were so similar to the ones I used to play in the USA when I was their age. It is amazing that in a place so far from where I come from there are those little similarities in growing up. The children were so loving and appreciative; so genuinely happy that we were there.

            As a storm rolled in and the children wondered home I walked back to the residential buildings.  The cool air that the dark skies brought calmed down the whole atmosphere. The other volunteers and I sat on the porch waiting for dinner reflecting on our day. The children and the people working at the ministries were so inspiring. The children taught us that no matter the odds happiness comes from your outlook on life, and not to dwell in the past. The founders and volunteers taught us that truly good people out here exist: they gave up their lives in a developed country with many luxuries for a country in need.

            Johnbull gathered us all (volunteers, women/families in the program, and resident teachers) together at a long makeshift table of wood panels to eat dinner. Johnbull passed us around our plates and we all enjoyed conversation without distractions from TV, cellphones, or other technology.

            After dinner I went on a walk and ran into some of the residents praying. They invited me to join but I prayed much differently so I sat and watched with the children. Even though I celebrated the same religion, we had very different ways of practicing. I quietly pray, while the Ghanaians yelled at the top of their lungs at God, carrying on a full conversation. They were talking to God like he was sitting right in front of them. There were five residents praying, all with their eyes closed having their own conversations. Every so often they would all sing a few lines of a song in unison and then go back to their separate conversations with God. This was something I had never seen before, but mirrored the Ghanaian culture. From my experiences in Ghana, I saw that the natives would sing, talk, and preach very loudly. Everything, down to Easter Sunday/ Monday was a party with loud drums, chants, and songs. Even the clothes were “loud”; with colors and patterns that screamed energy.

            After my walk I retired to my bunk bed for a very hot and sticky sleep. The window was wide open; the risk of mosquito bourn illnesses was less important then the cool breeze that the night brought.

            The next day we had breakfast together just like dinner the night before. All the volunteers split into our volunteer groups: I was assigned painting. I painted the girls living quarters a pretty pink instead of the grungy blue that was there previously. Just that little act gave so much joy to the little girl that lived in the room. After my painting shift was over I went to the school to see if I could help with anything. The principal told me that a teacher hadn’t come in that day and placed me into a classroom. Being thrown into a classroom and expected to teach was one of the hardest things I’ve had to do. I thought on my feet and made a quick lesson plan. At the end on the school day the children thanked me over and over again for coming to teach them. They love learning so much and treated their teachers with so much respect.

            The people that I interacted with in City of Refuge Ministries were so thankful and inspiring, I have never felt so welcomed (including in my own home country). I was so touched by the Ghanaian children and families at the ministry and the way they treated each other and me. A mother in the ministry told me that they call each other “brother or sister,” whether they have known each other their whole lives or just five minutes, because “how could you steal or hurt your brother/sister?” It’s this thinking that I had never come across in my life/travels.

Background on Ha Long Bay:

Ha Long Bay is considered a UNESCO World Heritage in northern Vietnam. The bay is famous for it’s limestone islands, which look like solitary cliffs scattered throughout the bay.  The bay seems never ending, but in fact is about 1,500 squared kilometers. Many observers and tour guides label Ha Long Bay as a “Natural Wonder of the World.”

Environment:

 Ha Long Bay is very geologically diverse. It has the characteristics fitting the evergreen biosystem and the oceanic/sea shore biosystem. The bay is home to 14 endemic floral species and 60 endemic faunal species (facts retrieved from Wikipedia). With the increase of tourism there is more waste going in to the Bay and damages done with boating. The natural mangroves and seagrass beds have been destroyed to dock junk boats. To try to counter act the damage done, there are eco friendly tours to choose from as well as restrictions put on the amount of waste resorts can deposit.

The Myth:

Ha Long is Vietnamese for “descending dragon”. As told by local tour guides, when Vietnam was first starting to develop into a country, the gods sent dragons to protect the Vietnamese against foreign invaders. The dragons spit out “jewels” which are the limestone islands of Ha Long Bay. These islands or “jewels” blocked the invaders from coming into inlet. After winning the battle against the invaders the dragons decided to live in the bay: “descending dragon”.

Getting There:

To get to Ha Long Bay you will need to be in northern Vietnam. Fly in to the Hanoi airport, from there take a bus service, rent a car, or hire a guide service to get you to Ha Long Bay. This is about a three and a half hour ride. Some hotels have services that will have a guide bus to get you out to Ha Long Bay, ask the hospitality service of the hotel to see if this is offered to you.

When to Go:

The best time of season to go to Ha Long Bay is over winter. The month of January to early spring (April) will lead you to the best weather. At this time the humidity is mild and the average is about 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The water will be a bit cold, but still warm enough for a quick dip. The nighttime temperature won’t dip below upper 50s, but still bring a jacket to be sure. The summer is hot and humid; it would be more uncomfortable and less relaxing

What to Do:

While visiting Ha Long Bay you should rent a junk boat. These range in prices and luxury, if you are on a budget you may not get the fanciest junk boat but each boat is 3 stories and sleep about 20. If you have a big group then the boat will be all yours, if there is only a few of you then you will get paired with another group. The junk boat will cruise the emerald green waters of the natural wonder. Most boats have an open terrace on the top story where you and your group will sit out and enjoy the views of the 2,000 islands against the sunset. The staff of the junk boat will serve you fresh seafood meals and cocktails. There are options to go caving, kayaking, and see the floating pearl markets. Go kayaking in the morning to watch the sunset and have a great start to the day. If it happens to be raining at any point in your visit, use this time to go caving. The boat will bring you up to “The Cave of Surprise” which is actually three caves that grow in size to “surprise” the visitor with the last one’s enormity. Around sunset is the best time to jump off of the top of the junk boat. Wait until the boat is anchored, turned off, and you have the okay from the captain and crew.

Caving:

Many of the limestone islands are actually hallow which makes caves. Historically, fishermen lived in these caves, now they are available to tourists to explore. Tour companies set up colorful lights to enhance the caving experience. The lights allow tourists to see the enormity of the caves and how tall/deep the caves go. Most of the tour programs offer the option of caving.

 Floating Villages:

There are four fishing villages “Cura Van”, “Ba Hang”, “Cong Tau”, and “Vong Vieng”. The people that live in these villages live in floating houses and typically make a living by fishing. There are 200 species of fish in the water that the villages float on top of (Fact checked on Wikipedia). There are also floating pearl markets on top the waters of Ha Long Bay. You may purchase pearls here or about 10 miles outside of Ha Long Bay (on your way back to Hanoi). The pearls sold at these locations are formed and farmed in Ha Long Bay and would make a great souvenir. These markets take credit card and Vietnam’s currency.

Money:

Vietnam takes the currency of “Dong”, but the junk boats and tour agencies take credit cards. The price you pay for a junk boat on Ha Long Bay depends on how long you stay, the tour agency you go through (if you even decide to go through a tour agency), the amount of drinks you get on the boat (which aren’t included in the price), what junk boat you choose, and how many people you have in your group. Have a little extra cash on you to tip the tour guide and crew (if you choose).

Bathrooms:

Bathrooms in Vietnam are western-style, which means you don’t have to squat like close-by Chinese bathrooms. The bathrooms on the junk boat are also very nice. There are large showers, hot water, and very clean.

Bedrooms:

Each bedroom on the junk boat has two twin beds. There are ten bedrooms on a midsized junk boat. The number of bedrooms increases with the size of the junk boat.

Ability:

This is not a recommended activity for the disable. There are times where you have to jump from land to boat or boat to boat, and many stairs on the boat. There is also not a lot of space for a wheelchair. If you are disable talk to a tour company, they may have a solution; perhaps a larger junk boat that is wheelchair accessible.

If Junk Boats aren’t for you:

There are two large islands that have hotels and beaches dedicated to tourists. These islands are called “Tuan Chau” and “Cat Ba”. If you have a disability this may be a better option than a junk boat. The island’s resorts offer tour guides so you don’t have to do Ha Long Bay independently if you choose this option.

The Best Part:

The best part of being on Ha Long Bay is being with a great group of people cruising through beautiful scenery. Choose your group well and make sure they are up for a good time!